Dresden, a city rich in history and culture, became a very special home for me for two years between 2019 and 2021, and forever holds a special place in my heart. It’s a place that I, as an American, felt both privileged and challenged to navigate. Prior to my arrival, Dresden was familiar to me primarily through cultural references like the cabaret-rock band The Dresden Dolls and Kurt Vonnegut’s Slaughterhouse Five, which recounts the city’s destruction during World War II. Vonnegut once described his first view of Dresden as a paradise, a sentiment reinforced by historical images of its pre-war beauty.

However, my personal introduction to Dresden was far less idyllic. Within the first weeks, I encountered several difficult situations, most notably harassment over a train ticket mishap and a stalking incident. These experiences underscored the vulnerabilities of being a foreigner and a woman in an unfamiliar city. Navigating language barriers and cultural differences amplified the challenges, as did moments of isolation.

Yet, amidst these challenges, Dresden also offered me profound moments of connection and inspiration, particularly through the extraordinary women I met. These women, fierce in their resolve and united by a shared experience of living as women in a complex world, reminded me of the strength found in community. Together, we laughed at the absurdities we faced and supported each other in moments of hardship. This sense of solidarity was transformative, reinforcing the importance of compassion and emotional resilience.

Despite its ugly side, Dresden was also a city where I met extraordinary women who inspire me immensely. I met young feminists who are so fierce and strong who helped me to laugh about how absurd the world can be to live in as a woman. These women remind me to stay strong and to keep valuing myself. In their company, I did not feel ashamed for having had tough experiences. Instead, I felt embraced and held up to keep growing and to tune into my deeper wisdom and compassion. I’ve felt a comradery here with these women that has been absolutely life-changing.

Dresden’s physical beauty stands in stark contrast to its more difficult aspects. The city’s architecture, such as the towering Old Town and the serene path along the Elbe River, evokes wonder and awe. Walking through the Heide forest, sitting in Alauenpark, or standing by the stream under the traffic overpass, I found moments of peace and reflection. The juxtaposition of city and nature in these spaces felt like a metaphor for the balance between the external world and the inner self.

The path along the Elbe river makes you want to frolic about and pretend it is summer even in the heights of winter. The skies of Dresden are magnificent, often with one side appearing as pastel blue as a fairytale illustration while the other direction is dark and doomsday like an apocalyptic film. The Old Town is towering and intimidating. There is one building with black, robed figures with hoods peering down at you from above in a fantastically daunting and gothically mysterious way. Medieval knights with shields and swords guard the archway entrance leading into…the old palace grounds? (Honestly, I am not so sure.) The Heide forest, which is enormous and surrounds the entire city, is always near enough to feel transported into the wilderness and out of the city.

My favourite place in Dresden is this point next to the stream in the Heide forest underneath the giant archways framing the traffic overpass. I affectionately refer to this place as the “Bridge Between Two Worlds” because it feels like the meeting between quietude and chaos. This point is the meeting between the city above (distantly heard through the sounds of wind blowing against fast-moving cars above) and the wilderness below. The sounds of the rushing stream and the sounds of the traffic so far above blend together into one and at times battle for dominance. The happiest dogs I’ve ever seen prance around as though everyone should learn from them how to be joyous in life. Some carry giant wooden branches and somehow always maintain a safe distance from their humans, stopping to glance back and pause as the humans approach before moving on. Kids squeal in delight and play in the sand by the river. Often, there will be a woman or a group of women quietly singing meditation chants or Irish folk music, and it is utterly delightful.

The experience of living in Dresden, both its hardships and its beauty, has deepened my understanding of empathy and resilience. Through connection, community, and self-reflection, I found ways to process my experiences and continue growing. It is a reminder of the importance of fostering compassionate connections with others, while also nurturing one’s own emotional well-being.